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Tuesday, February 24, 2009

 

vancouver

We visited Vancouver, BC over the past weekend and had a marvelous time! I want to make some notes for future reference, and for anyone who happens to be looking for information online.

We took the train from Seattle to Vancouver - it was cheap and easy. Actually, we got on in Edmonds, which was a good choice because only a few other people got on at the same stop, so there was not much waiting in line. We did have to wait for a quite a while to get through customs at the Vancouver train station, but oh well. It was nowhere near the 2-hour wait at customs at Blaine that some of my work friends described recently.

Wedgewood Hotel - Absolutely marvelous. The room was spotless and comfortable, the service was excellent and cheerful, and the massages we had the spa were lovely.

Bacchus Restaurant and Lounge - the lounge is intimite and cozy, with lots of dark wood, cushy chairs, heavy drapes, and soft lighting. The drinks are expensive but delicious, the lounge menu is tasty, and the breakfast & afternoon tea are quite good. However - the main dining room is overpriced and underimpressive. It's not that the food is BAD - it's just that it's uninspired and costs much more than it should.

Diva at the Metropolitan Hotel - we had lunch this trip, and had a prix fixe dinner on a previous trip. I remember being wowed by dinner, but that was years ago and I'm sure my tastes have gotten snootier. We had a prix fixe lunch this time, and it was quite good. There were three courses - the appetizer & dessert were quite excellent, but we felt the main course was somewhat off the mark. Not that it was bad, it just didn't work as a cohesive dish. However! I would go back just for cocktails. I had one they called a "Poire Belle" and it was AMAZING, like the essence of pears distilled with vanilla and a hint of spice, incredibly smooth.

Cioppino's - don't let the generic-sounding name turn you off - we had a really terrific dinner here. The chef is considered one of the best in the city, and I can see why. We had a mushroom & chestnut soup that was to do die for. I had a bowl of cioppino for dinner which was hands down the best I've ever eaten, and R* had duck which came in 3 different preparations on one plate and was outstanding. At dessert, R* had the house tiramisu which put all other tiramisu to shame - like we may consider driving back to Vancouver just for dessert, it was that good.

Vancouver Symphony - Put Seattle's symphony to shame. The hall is run-down and chilly, the bathrooms are a little yucky, but the orchestra is terrific. Louis Lortie was the guest pianist, playing two Lizst pieces (not for the faint of heart or small of hand!) and he was stunning. I'm so pleased we went to this performance.

Kirin Seafood Restaurant - we went here for dim sum and discovered that we've only eaten cheap crappy dim sum in Seattle! The food was excellent, the staff steered us through the experience since we obviously didn't know what we were doing, and the restaurant was full of Chinese people chowing down. I would love to go back with a bigger group so we could try more dishes. (Note, the dim sum is of the order off the menu variety, not the wheeled around on carts variety.)

Vancouver Art Gallery - we visited this art museum the last time we were in Vancouver and had the same reaction: the building is lovely, the collection is nothing special, and the museum store is the best we've ever seen - and that includes MOMA and the various Smithsonian/National Gallery stores. Good news: you can shop at the museum store without paying admission to the gallery.

Bill Reid Gallery - Bill Reid was a half-Haida (Native or First Nations group) artist who put a phenomenal amount of effort into reviving and publicizing his people's native art forms, as well as bringing many of the native motifs into modern media. The collection is really lovely and features lots of multimedia stations such as videos, interactive displays, and audio recordings that help place the art in context.

Chambar - Amazing Belgian restaurant. The menu features crazy cocktails, a nice variety of Belgian beers, moules et frites in multiple preparations (yes, I am in love with mussels!), gorgeous entrees, and artistic & tasty desserts. I wish we could have gone back at least twice more.

We also bought some nice stuff at Danier Leather (R* got a coat, I got a purse) for ridiculously good prices, and I stocked up on tea at Murchie's.

All in all, a terrific vacation. Wish we could go back every couple of months.

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