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Monday, September 13, 2004

 

herbfarm

Theme: Rogue Bins and Bottle Booty (meaning, the menu was inspired by some wines they found in the cellar that didn't have many bottles left)

When we arrived at the Herbfarm, courtesy of our friend A* who kindly drove us there and back, we were invited to take a look around the building. There is a cookbook library upstairs, and a wine cellar/storage area that also contains the restrooms. R* and I went upstairs to check out the library, and mooned over the idea of having our very own library someday. Then we took a stroll through the wine cellar, and then had a couple of glasses of herbal iced tea in front of the dramatic tile fireplace.

One of the owners of the Herbfarm escorted the whole group outside, told us about the history of the business, and then showed us around the gardens. We tasted some herbs and edible flowers (did you know you can eat daylily petals?), and met the resident recyclers: a flock of ducks and a pot-bellied pig named Hamlet.

Then we came back to the restaurant and were seated at a private table (R* requested a private table so we wouldn't have to worry about making small talk with strangers). I discovered a tiny frame next to my plate that contained a little sign saying "29 Happy Birthday Wishes to Emily from the Herbfarm". R* was mystified about how they knew how old I am - he doesn't remember telling them. I thought it was a sweet gesture. We were slightly overwhelmed at the parade of wineglasses filling the space between us. I actually liked the water goblet best - it was metal and so kept the water incredibly cold, which was incredibly refreshing.

The meal was spread over about 4 1/2 hours. After the first course, the other owner and the head chef took turns speaking about the food and the wines that we would be eating. The mushrooms were all gathered by their staff forager - I think I want his job! As we ate, waitstaff constantly circulated with ice, water, clean napkins (every time someone got up, they reset the table with a fresh napkin), the bread basket, little trays of cold herb butter, and more wine.

Now for the courses!

Beginning from Garden and Shore
Willapa Bay Flat Oyster with Succotash
Herb Tempura
Rosemary Mussel Skewer with Cucumber Kimchi
wine: 1998 Domaine Meriwether Brut, Cap. Wm Clark Cuvee


When I took a look at the menu, I was alarmed - I generally don't like oysters. But this oyster was cooked with a pinch of cheese and corn and bell pepper succotash. It was wholly delightful. The herb tempura was a sage leaf, a mint leaf, and a nasturtium blossom just barely fried, with a tiny cup of ponzu for dipping. And the mussels... oh my goodness. They'd been steamed, then removed from their shells and smoked over basil wood (the big stalks of basil plants), then skewered on a rosemary twig and pan-fried. They tasted AMAZING. The cucumber kimchi was tiny sticks of cucumber bathed in something spicy and salty.

The sparkling wine was served in a champagne flute with a pinch of fresh herbs - rose geranium, pineapple sage, or lemon verbena. I realized I needed to pace myself a little better after cheerfully downing two glasses.

Quillisacut Goat Cheese & Fines Herbes Ravioli
with Warm Tomato Salad
wine: 2003 L'Ecole No. 41 Barrel-Fermented Semillon and 2003 Chinook Rose of Cabernet Franc


I was again skeptical when I looked at the menu, because I typically don't like goat cheese. But I may finally be coming around... the tiny raviolis were delicious, and went beautifully with the warm tomatoes. There was a giant slice of a beefsteak tomato in the bottom of the bowl, and smaller Sun Gold and cherry tomatoes scattered over the top.

The two wines with this course were my favorites of the evening. I already knew I liked Semillons, but I was happily surprised by the rose. I don't think I've ever had pink wine that didn't taste like candy. The winery, Chinook, is one that I've noticed before - we had a Chinook Semillon at Carmelita a while ago that was really good, too. I'll have to watch for their cute plaid label next time I'm in the wine store.


Dungeness Crab Cake
with Shave King Boletes and Lemon Thyme Sauce
2003 Chateau Ste. Michelle Cold Creek Vineyard Riesling


This was so exciting for a mushroom-lover like me! The crabcake was meaty and thick but small in diameter. It was topped with a leek relish, and completely covered over by strips of thinly sliced Boletes mushrooms - also called porcini or cepes. The creamy lemon-thyme sauce drizzled around the plate was so tasty - it made me think I should plant some lemon thyme in my own garden. The Riesling was perfectly fine, although I wasn't finished with the rose from the previous course while I was drinking it, so it might not have gotten the attention it deserved.

Fennel-Roasted Black Cod
with Roasted Beets and Bacon
2000 Domaine Serene Pinot Noir, Evenstad Reserve or 2000 Rex Hill Pinot Noir, Reserve


Black cod is also called sablefish, and it's the fish used to make kazuzuke, the Japanese dish that's marinated in miso and sake. It's got a very delicate texture and a mild flavor - and I think I talked R* into letting me make kazuzuke! That's a big breakthrough because he normally doesn't like white fish very much, so we usually stick to salmon and tuna. The dish was garnished with finely chopped bacon and parsley, with tiny halved roasted pink and yellow beets, and a splash of roasted beet sauce on the plate. R* gave me his beets because he's not that into them but knows that I love them. I didn't like the wine with this course that must - I had the Domaine Serene and R* had the Rex Hill - I think maybe I just don't like Pinot Noir. Plus, I started feeling headachey after drinking it, as often happens with me and red wine.

We were getting pretty antsy at this point so we waved over a waiter and told him we were going to go for a walk, and could we feed the pig? He suggested that we wait until after the next course, and he'd meet us in the lobby with a bucket of scraps.

Apple Shiso Ice

This was a tiny "intermezzo" as our waiter referred to it - a slushy sorbet of shiso (Japanese basil, it tastes a little bit like cinnamon) and apple juice, with tiny paper-thin strips of Gravenstein apples over the top. So light and crisp.

Then, as promised, we met our waiter in the lobby and were handed a little tin bucket full of scraps. He told us that Hamlet would inadvertantly bite in his enthusiasm to eat, so keep our fingers away from the snout! He also said that Hamlet likes to be scratched on the back if we were so inclined. So, we strolled over to the pigpen and dumped the contents of the bucket in front of Hamlet. He snorfled down the scraps, allowing his pen-mates the ducks to grab bites. I leaned over the fence and scritched his back - he felt like a bristly football. R* said, "Oh, Emily, don't get your hands all dirty..." but by then it was too late. I didn't mind, I knew I could wash my hands before we went back to the dining room! After Hamlet finished his snorfling, he looked up at my face and made eye contact and looked like he smiled. R* said, "He's saying, 'Thanks, lady!'". Very very cute.

Then we went back and washed up before the next course....

Rolled Loin of Anderson Ranch Lamb
with Wild Mushrooms, Salt-Roasted Potatoes, Fillet Beans and Cinnamon Basil Sauce
2000 Woodward Cayon Walla Walla Merlot

Okay, for a third time, I was concerned that I wouldn't like this. I've never liked lamb, and green beans aren't my favorite, either. And again, I was happily proven wrong. The lamb was filled with chopped chanterelle mushrooms and sliced into rounds - and it was pink inside which would normally creep me out. But it was so tender and delicious, I wasn't disturbed at all after the first bite. On the side were roasted finger potatoes, the dreaded but tasty green beans (skinny and crisp), and sliced lobster and chanterelle mushrooms. The brown-colored sauce was made from cinnamon basil, which is every bit as tasty as it sounds!

Bleah, more red wine. I liked the taste of the merlot, but it only increased my headache. And by this time, we were quite intoxicated - I would've liked to lie down for a little while. Instead, we just sat and grinned stupidly at each other.

Point Reyes Blue Cheese
with Asian Pear, Spice Bread, and Herbfarm Honey


I was so happy to see Point Reyes Blue Cheese on the menu - I've had it before in the house salad at Saltoro in North Seattle, and I LOVE it. It went very nicely with the Asian pear, spice bread, honey, and hazelnuts... but I would've been happy to eat it alone, I love it so much. We were both relieved that they didn't bring us more wine then - we were fading fast.

Fruit Flavors of High Summer
Peach Cobbler with Anise Hyssop Ice Cream
Plum, Walnut, and Lavender Tart
Blackberry Rose Geranium Ice Cream Cone


Dessert arrived on a big plate dominated by a wire ice cream cone holder. Tucked inside was a tiny cone filled with a brownish-purple ice cream, that tasted of berries and flowers. The plum and walnut tart was topped with a fluff of lavender cream that nearly overwhelmed me with its perfumey flavor. I adore lavender so that was a good thing in my book, but R* made a face when he ate it - he said it was too strong for him. The peach cobbler was served in a tiny bowl topped with anise hyssop ice cream... we had seen the anise hyssop growing in the gardens - it smelled divine! And, turns out, it tastes divine as well, like the sweetest, most gentle licorice flavor.

Coffee & Teas

We both chose French-roasted coffee, figuring we'd fall drunkenly to sleep in the car without an infusion of caffeine. I would have liked to try some of the herbal teas, but that would've put me directly to sleep.

A Selection of Small Treats
wine: Vintage 1901 Barbeito Malvazia Madeira


And finally, we were served a small plate with tiny chocolates... a chocolate cherry brownie, white chocolate-lemon basil truffle, orange/thyme/almond cookie, white chocolate covered ground cherry (with leaves still attached!), and a chocolate truffle with an herb I can't remember. They were so tiny, we managed to eat them even though we were so full and sleepy. The white chocolate-lemon basil truffle was our favorite - which is funny because neither of us usually prefer white chocolate.

The madeira was just a couple of swallows in a glass with a bell at the bottom and a narrow tube at the top. I've never seen a glass like that before, but then again, I've never drunk 100+ year old madeira before, either. It smelled and tasted like caramel and port and warmth... I can't imagine how much it must have cost, which means I will probably never encounter its like again.

As we were finishing up, a server informed us that our bill was all taken care of so we could just leave whenever we were ready - that was a relief to me because I didn't think R* was up to signing the bill. We strolled outside just as A* pulled up in her car to meet us. She drove us safely home and oohed and ahhed over the menu.

Then we proved we were grownups by taking Advil and vitamin C before we went to sleep - and amazingly enough, we got up this morning at 6:30 and neither of us were hung over!


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